The Puppy Finder
Handbook
Your guide to finding a healthy, well-bred dog from a responsible breeder
⚡ If You Read Nothing Else — The 5-Minute Version
Here's everything distilled to the essentials. These five markers separate responsible breeders from everyone else.
The 3 Questions That Reveal Everything
These questions cut through marketing and get to the heart of a breeder's practices. Pay attention not just to what they say, but how they say it — enthusiasm versus defensiveness tells you a lot.
✓ Good Answer: "Both parents have OFA patellas, annual CAER eye exams, BAER hearing tests, and I can send you links to their OFA pages. The dam also has cardiac clearance. I test for Early-Onset Cataracts through Embark — I'm happy to share those results too."
🚩 Red Flag: "My vet says they're healthy" or "I've been breeding for 20 years and never had problems" or "Health testing is just a money grab" or simply not knowing what tests their breed requires.
Why this matters: Every breed has specific genetic conditions that responsible breeders screen for. A breeder who can't name the specific tests for their breed either doesn't know them or isn't doing them. Both are disqualifying.
✓ Good Answer: "Contact me first, always. I take back any dog I've bred, at any age, for any reason, no questions asked. It's in my contract. I'd rather have them back than in a shelter or rehomed to a stranger. I've taken back dogs at 10 years old when owners passed away."
🚩 Red Flag: Silence, hesitation, "That's your responsibility," "Just rehome it yourself," or no mention of a return policy in their contract.
Why this matters: This question reveals whether a breeder sees their puppies as products or as dogs they're responsible for throughout their lives. Preservation breeders maintain relationships with their puppies' families for the dog's entire life — they want to know how their breeding decisions turned out. Someone who sells and moves on doesn't have that investment.
✓ Good Answer: "I've been planning this breeding for two years. The sire has excellent rear angulation that complements my female's strong topline. His pedigree brings in some diversity — our COI is under 5%. Temperamentally, he's very steady which balances her higher energy. I looked at his offspring from previous litters and liked their consistency. And his health testing complements hers — she's a carrier for one condition, he's clear, so no puppies will be affected."
🚩 Red Flag: "They're both cute" or "He was available" or "We wanted puppies" or "They're both AKC registered" or simply not being able to articulate specific reasoning beyond appearance.
Why this matters: This question reveals whether breeding decisions are intentional or accidental. Preservation breeders study pedigrees, attend to coefficient of inbreeding, consider structural strengths and weaknesses, evaluate temperament compatibility, and plan breedings months or years in advance. Someone who just puts two dogs together isn't breeding thoughtfully — they're producing puppies.
Bonus Questions That Dig Deeper
✓ Good Answer: "I follow Puppy Culture protocols. Puppies are handled daily from birth. Starting at 3 days, I do Early Neurological Stimulation exercises. They're exposed to different surfaces — tile, carpet, grass, metal grates. They hear household sounds, meet children and adults, and start basic enrichment puzzles around 5 weeks. By 7 weeks they've had car rides and crate introduction."
🚩 Red Flag: Blank stare, "They're around my kids," or no structured approach to early development.
✓ Good Answer: "Absolutely! Murphy from the 2022 litter just finished his Grand Championship. Two from that litter are doing agility — I can connect you with their owners. The 2023 litter has been really healthy; one did develop allergies around age 2, which we're tracking. I stay in touch with all my families."
🚩 Red Flag: Doesn't know where previous puppies ended up, can't provide references, or has no track record to discuss.
✓ Good Answer: "If someone wants to breed without showing or health testing. If they want to keep the dog outside. If they're not prepared for this breed's exercise needs. If they're buying as a surprise gift. If they've had multiple dogs that 'didn't work out.' If they're more focused on color than health."
🚩 Red Flag: "I'll sell to anyone who pays" or can't articulate any deal-breakers.
If a breeder hesitates to share documentation, that tells you everything you need to know. Transparency is non-negotiable. Responsible breeders are proud of their health testing, excited to share pedigrees, and happy to connect you with previous puppy buyers. Defensiveness, evasiveness, or "just trust me" are disqualifying responses. The information exists — if they won't share it, ask yourself why.
Understanding the Landscape
Finding a Good Breeder Should Feel Clear — Not Confusing
Choosing the right breeder can feel overwhelming when so much of the information online is mixed, hidden, or full of opinions that don't actually help. You've probably encountered Facebook groups where questions get attacked, breeder websites that all claim to be "reputable," and conflicting advice about what really matters. Most families just want clear answers — what responsible breeding really looks like, how to recognize ethical practices, and where they can actually find breeders who prioritize health, structure, and temperament.
This handbook is designed to give you that clarity. Not opinions. Not judgment. Just straightforward, practical guidance that empowers you to make confident decisions. Every piece of advice here comes from the accumulated wisdom of preservation breeders who've dedicated decades to their breeds — not from armchair critics or those who've never raised a litter themselves.
The Reality You're Navigating
The puppy market has exploded in recent years, and unfortunately, so has the number of people breeding without proper knowledge, testing, or intention. The pandemic drove puppy prices to historic highs, and opportunistic breeders flooded the market. Many of these operations haven't gone away. Meanwhile, genuinely responsible breeders — who lose money on most litters after accounting for health testing, proper nutrition, veterinary care, and the time investment — can't compete on availability or price.
This creates a frustrating dynamic: the puppies that are easiest to find are often from the least responsible sources, while the best breeders have waitlists measured in years and don't need to advertise. This guide will teach you how to find those breeders and earn a spot on their lists.
What You'll Learn
Inside this handbook, you'll discover:
- What preservation-minded breeding means — and why it matters far beyond the show ring
- The signs of a responsible program — concrete markers you can verify, not just trust
- Red flags that should send you walking — including subtle ones that escape most buyers
- The most reliable places to begin your search — parent clubs, shows, OFA database, and word-of-mouth networks
- How to decode breeder language — what terms like "pet quality," "limited registration," and "co-own" actually mean for you
- How to understand health testing — the difference between OFA, CHIC, CAER, and DNA panels, and how to verify results yourself
- How to navigate waitlists — realistic timelines, deposit expectations, and how to make yourself an attractive buyer
- How to communicate effectively with breeders — first emails that get responses, questions that impress rather than annoy, and etiquette that builds relationships
These are the things I wish I had known when I was choosing my first Boston Terrier — the kind of straightforward clarity that helps you feel confident instead of overwhelmed. I made mistakes along the way. This guide exists so you don't have to.
Who This Guide Is For
This handbook is for anyone considering purchasing a puppy from a breeder — whether it's your first dog or your fifth. It's particularly valuable if you:
- Feel overwhelmed by conflicting information about what makes a "good" breeder
- Want a specific breed and understand that breed-specific traits come from intentional breeding
- Are willing to wait for the right puppy rather than settling for whoever has availability
- Care about the long-term health and temperament of your future companion
- Want to support ethical breeding practices rather than puppy mills
This guide doesn't judge people who adopt from shelters or rescues — that's a wonderful choice too. But if you've decided to purchase from a breeder, you deserve honest guidance about how to do it responsibly.
Use this handbook as a trustworthy reference as you research, compare breeders, and take the first steps toward finding a healthy, well-bred companion. Save it, share it, return to it when you need a gut check. Let's make this process clear instead of confusing.
The Breeding Spectrum: Types of Breeders
Not all breeders are the same. Understanding the differences helps you know what questions to ask and what answers to expect.
Preservation Breeders
Preservation breeding means breeding with the intention of protecting the health, structure, and temperament of a breed over time. It's thoughtful, intentional, and focused on strengthening the breed — not following trends, meeting market demand, or generating income.
These breeders see themselves as stewards of their breed's future. They're playing a long game measured in generations, not litters. Most preservation breeders lose money on breeding when you factor in health testing ($1,000-3,000+ per dog), show entries, travel, proper nutrition, prenatal care, c-sections if needed (common in some breeds), and the hundreds of hours invested in raising litters properly.
What Defines Them:
- Follow the AKC breed standard closely — The standard isn't arbitrary; it describes the structure, proportion, and temperament that allows the breed to function as intended and live comfortably
- Complete comprehensive health testing on all breeding dogs — Not just "vet checked" but breed-specific screenings through OFA, CAER, and DNA panels, with results publicly available
- Study pedigrees and genetics before breeding decisions — They know the dogs behind their dogs for multiple generations, track health outcomes in lines, and calculate coefficient of inbreeding
- Often show dogs in conformation, performance, or working events — This isn't ego; it's verification that their dogs meet the standard and have correct structure and temperament
- Breed infrequently — quality over quantity — Most have 1-2 litters per year, sometimes less, and only when they want to keep a puppy for their own program
- Maintain relationships with puppy families for life — They want updates, photos, and to know how their breeding decisions manifested over time
- Take back any dog they've bred, at any age, for any reason — This is non-negotiable for preservation breeders; their dogs don't end up in shelters or with strangers
- Mentor newcomers to the breed — They're invested in the breed community and help educate the next generation of owners and breeders
What Their Operation Looks Like:
- Small number of dogs (typically 2-6 breeding dogs)
- Dogs live as family members in the home, not in kennels
- Waitlists measured in months or years
- May not have a flashy website — referrals keep them busy
- Active in breed clubs, attend national specialties
- Can discuss strengths AND weaknesses of their dogs honestly
- Happy to provide references from previous puppy buyers
Why it matters: It's not about creating show dogs — most puppies go to companion homes. It's about keeping a breed healthy, stable, and true to what it was meant to be. A preservation breeder puts the breed first — so the puppy you bring home has the best possible start in life. They've already invested thousands of dollars and years of knowledge into producing your puppy before you ever contact them.
Reputable Breeders
A reputable breeder breeds with responsibility and care. They may not focus specifically on preservation or showing, but they are committed to producing healthy, well-adjusted puppies and doing right by both their dogs and their buyers.
The line between "reputable" and "preservation" isn't always sharp — many reputable breeders are essentially preservation breeders who just don't use that term. What matters is their practices, not their label.
What Defines Them:
- Health test their breeding dogs — Maybe not every test under the sun, but at minimum the core screenings recommended by the parent club
- Raise puppies in a clean, loving home environment — Not in outdoor kennels, garages, or barns
- Screen families carefully before placing puppies — Ask about your living situation, experience, and lifestyle
- Use written contracts with health guarantees — Clear terms that protect both parties
- Stay transparent about their practices — Willing to answer questions, show their setup, share documentation
- Provide ongoing support after you take your puppy home — Available for questions about feeding, training, health concerns
- Require spay/neuter for pet puppies — Or sell on limited registration to prevent breeding
- Have a return policy — Will take the dog back if you can't keep it
Key Differences from Preservation Breeders:
- May or may not show their dogs
- May breed slightly more frequently
- May have less deep knowledge of pedigrees and genetics
- Focus is on producing good individual puppies rather than advancing the breed overall
The key difference: Reputable breeders prioritize doing things responsibly for each litter. Preservation breeders add attention to the breed's history, genetics, and future. Both can be excellent choices for families seeking healthy, well-bred companions.
Casual / Hobby Breeders
This is a broad category that includes people who breed occasionally, often because they love their pet and want to experience puppies, or because friends/family want a puppy from their dog. Quality varies enormously in this group — from nearly-reputable to deeply problematic.
The Spectrum Within "Casual":
At the better end: Someone who owns a nice example of the breed, completed health testing after learning it was important, bred once to a carefully selected mate, placed puppies with care, and may never breed again. These breeders often learn and improve over time.
At the worse end: Someone who bred their pet because "she's so sweet" without health testing, without researching genetics, and sold puppies on Facebook to whoever responded first. These puppies may be fine — or may not be.
What to Look For:
- Did they health test? — This is the key differentiator. A casual breeder who did OFA testing is operating responsibly even if they're not "professional"
- Why are they breeding? — "My kids want to see puppies" is concerning; "I want to continue my dog's excellent lines" is not
- How did they choose the mate? — Random dog down the street vs. researched pedigree and health status
- What's their plan for unsold puppies? — Responsible casual breeders have homes lined up before breeding
- Will they take puppies back? — This commitment transcends experience level
Your approach: Ask the same questions you would ask any breeder. A casual breeder who health tests, screens families, provides contracts, and commits to lifetime support can be a perfectly good choice. One who doesn't may not be. Don't assume either way — verify.
Backyard Breeders
This term describes breeders who breed without proper knowledge, health testing, or intention. They may breed for extra income, because they think their dog is cute, to let kids "experience the miracle of birth," or simply without understanding that breeding well requires expertise.
The term "backyard breeder" isn't about where dogs are kept — it's about the lack of intentionality, education, and responsibility. Many well-meaning people fall into this category without realizing it.
Common Characteristics:
- No health testing on parents — Or claims of "vet checked" rather than actual OFA/genetic screening
- No written contracts or health guarantees — Cash transaction, no paperwork
- Puppies always available or very frequent litters — Every heat cycle = another litter
- No screening of buyers — First come, first served; no questions asked
- Focus on "rare" colors or trendy features — Merle in breeds where it's not standard, "teacup" sizes, unusual colors marketed at premiums
- Can't explain breeding decisions — "He's AKC registered" or "she's really sweet" is the extent of reasoning
- No involvement in breed community — Never attended a show, not a club member, unfamiliar with the breed standard
- Price varies wildly by color — Same litter, vastly different prices based on appearance
- No return policy — "Your responsibility" once money changes hands
Why People Buy From Them:
- Lower prices than responsible breeders
- Puppies available immediately
- Less intimidating than formal application processes
- Don't know the difference — "AKC registered" sounds legitimate
- Want a specific color the breeder is producing
Why this matters: Puppies from these situations may have health or temperament issues that aren't apparent until later. The lower upfront cost often leads to higher veterinary bills and heartbreak down the road. Hip dysplasia, heart conditions, eye problems, allergies, and temperament instability all have genetic components that health testing is designed to screen out. Skipping those tests doesn't mean the problems disappear — it means they surprise you later.
Commercial Operations (Puppy Mills)
Commercial breeding operations prioritize profit over the welfare of dogs. They produce large numbers of puppies with minimal investment in health, socialization, or genetic planning. The business model requires volume and low overhead — which means cutting corners on everything that makes responsible breeding expensive.
Puppy mills exist on a spectrum. Some are horrific operations with dogs in wire cages, never touched except to breed. Others are cleaner but still industrial — dogs as production units rather than individuals. The common thread is that profit drives decisions, not the welfare of dogs or quality of puppies.
How to Identify Them:
- Multiple breeds available at once — Responsible breeders focus on one or two breeds they're passionate about
- Puppies always in stock — "Ready to go home today!" is a commercial model, not responsible breeding
- Sold through pet stores or broker websites — These are distribution channels for volume producers
- No opportunity to meet parents or see facility — "We ship nationwide" without option for visits
- Minimal questions asked of buyers — Anyone with money can buy
- Shipping puppies sight-unseen is standard practice — No relationship building, no screening
- Flashy websites with lots of photos but little substance — Marketing over transparency
- No verifiable health testing — May claim "vet checked" or "health guaranteed" without OFA records
- High volume of reviews — Lots of puppies sold = lots of reviews, but read carefully for health complaints
The USDA Licensing Reality:
Some commercial breeders are USDA licensed, which means they meet minimum standards for animal welfare set by the Animal Welfare Act. However:
- These standards permit wire flooring in cages
- Dogs can legally be bred every heat cycle
- Socialization is not required
- Health testing is not required
- A license indicates compliance with basic welfare minimums, not quality breeding
A USDA license does not make a breeder responsible. It makes them legally compliant with minimal federal standards. These are not the same thing.
The Hidden Cost:
Puppies from commercial operations may appear healthy at purchase but often develop problems later:
- Genetic conditions that proper screening would have prevented
- Behavioral issues from lack of early socialization
- Difficulty bonding due to limited human contact in critical periods
- Chronic health issues requiring ongoing veterinary care
The economics: A $500 "bargain" puppy that develops hip dysplasia requiring $8,000 surgery is not a bargain. A puppy with severe anxiety from inadequate socialization that requires behavioral medication for life is not a bargain. The upfront savings evaporate — and you're left with heartbreak and bills.
Why the Breed Standard Actually Matters
You might think breed standards are just about creating show dogs or achieving a certain "look" — that it's all vanity and ribbons. The reality is much more practical and profoundly affects your future dog's quality of life:
The breed standard is a guideline that protects the structure, temperament, and overall soundness that help a dog live comfortably and function the way it was meant to. It's not about aesthetics for their own sake — it's about blueprinting a healthy, functional animal.
What the Standard Actually Protects:
Balanced Structure & Movement
Proper bone structure, joint angles, and proportions help dogs move comfortably and avoid orthopedic problems. A dog with correct angulation distributes force efficiently; one with poor structure compensates in ways that cause wear and injury over time. This affects whether your dog can comfortably go for walks at age 10.
Proper Breathing & Proportions
For breeds with shorter muzzles (brachycephalic breeds like Boston Terriers, French Bulldogs, Pugs), the standard defines proportions that allow adequate airflow. Dogs bred far outside standard with extremely flat faces often suffer from Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS), requiring expensive surgery or causing lifelong breathing difficulties. The standard exists to prevent this.
Stable, Predictable Temperament
Each breed has characteristic temperament traits — Labs are friendly, Border Collies are intense, Boston Terriers are lively and intelligent. The standard helps ensure dogs behave as expected for their breed. Breeding without attention to temperament produces unpredictable dogs that may be fearful, aggressive, or anxious in ways breed enthusiasts never intended.
Long-term Physical Wellbeing
Standards are designed around what helps dogs stay healthy throughout their lives. Eye shape and placement affect eye health. Ear shape affects ear infections. Body proportions affect spinal health. What looks like "just appearance" is actually engineering for a healthy life.
A Concrete Example: The Boston Terrier
The Boston Terrier standard calls for a dog that is "smooth coated, short-headed, compactly built, short-tailed" with a "square appearance" and a muzzle that is "short, square, wide and deep." It specifies that the "ideal weight" ranges from 15 to 25 pounds and that expression should be "alert and kind, indicating a high degree of intelligence."
Why does this matter?
- Square appearance: Proper proportions mean the dog moves efficiently without stress on joints
- Short but not flat muzzle: "Short" is not "nonexistent" — the standard describes a muzzle with enough length for comfortable breathing
- Weight range: Breeding to standard size means appropriate bone density and organ function; "teacup" variations don't exist in the standard because they cause health problems
- Temperament description: "Alert and kind" means a stable dog that's engaged but not reactive or anxious
When Breeders Deviate From Standard
Not all deviations from standard are equal. Understanding the spectrum helps you evaluate what you're looking at:
Minor Structural Variations (Usually Not a Concern):
- A dog that's slightly larger or smaller than ideal
- Markings that aren't perfectly symmetrical
- Minor variations in ear set or eye shape
- A "pet quality" dog that simply won't win in the show ring but is perfectly healthy
Problematic Deviations (Proceed With Caution):
- Extreme size variations: "Teacup," "mini," or "giant" versions of breeds not recognized by AKC often have health issues related to their size
- Exaggerated features: Extremely flat faces, excessive wrinkles, exaggerated skin folds — often lead to health problems
- Off-standard colors: Not automatically unhealthy, but often indicates breeding for appearance over health
- Structural extremes: Extremely long backs, extremely short legs, excessive angulation
A Note About "Rare" Colors and Trends
This is where nuance matters. Breeding outside the standard — especially for trends or aesthetics alone — doesn't automatically make a dog unhealthy. Health is determined by responsible testing, pedigree knowledge, and thoughtful decision-making, not color alone.
However, focusing only on appearance or novelty can lead breeders to overlook the bigger picture: structure, temperament, and health testing. When "rare" colors become the primary selling point, breeders may:
- Prioritize color over health testing
- Breed dogs that shouldn't be bred just because they're the right color
- Use unproven or unknown dogs from outside established lines
- Price puppies based on appearance rather than quality
The color itself isn't the problem — it's what it may indicate about the breeder's priorities.
- Is this breeder doing the same health testing as standard-color breeders?
- Can they explain their breeding decisions beyond color?
- Are they active in the breed community or operating outside it?
- Do they know the pedigrees behind their dogs?
- Would they breed these dogs if they weren't this color?
What else is this breeder prioritizing?
The Practical Takeaway
You don't need to become a breed expert or memorize the standard. But understanding that the standard exists for functional reasons — not just aesthetics — helps you evaluate breeders. When someone dismisses breed standards as "just for show people," they're dismissing generations of knowledge about what makes dogs of that breed healthy and sound.
A good question for any breeder: "How do your dogs compare to the breed standard?" A thoughtful breeder can discuss where their dogs excel and where they're working to improve. Someone who doesn't know or doesn't care about the standard may not understand what they're doing well enough to do it responsibly.
The Breeding Pyramid
3 min readA visual guide to understanding where breeders fall on the responsibility spectrum
Not all breeders are created equal. This pyramid visualizes the landscape — from the small number of dedicated preservation breeders at the top to the high-volume commercial operations at the bottom. Your goal is to find breeders in the green zone.
What This Means For Your Search
Top of the Pyramid = Longer Wait
Preservation breeders have waitlists because demand exceeds supply. They breed rarely and keep their best puppies. Worth the wait.
Middle Requires Verification
Hobby breeders vary enormously. Some are excellent; some are problematic. Don't assume — investigate each one individually.
Bottom = Easy to Find
The most available puppies come from the least responsible sources. "Available now" and "no waitlist" often indicate volume breeding.
Price ≠ Position
High prices don't guarantee top-tier breeders. Some commercial operations charge premium prices for "rare colors" while cutting corners on health.
The Education You Need
Health Testing Decoded
One of the most important markers of a responsible breeder — and also one of the most confusing topics for puppy buyers.
What Health Testing Actually Is
Health testing refers to specific medical evaluations performed on breeding dogs before they are bred. These tests screen for genetic conditions and structural problems that can be passed to puppies. The goal is to breed only dogs that have been evaluated and found suitable, reducing the incidence of inherited problems in offspring.
- ❌ A regular vet checkup — This confirms a dog isn't currently sick; it doesn't screen for genetic conditions
- ❌ Vaccinations — These prevent infectious disease, not inherited conditions
- ❌ A health certificate for travel — This confirms fitness to travel, not breeding suitability
- ❌ The breeder saying "my vet says they're healthy" — This is not documentation of genetic screening
- ❌ "Health guarantee" — This is a contract term about what happens if problems arise; it doesn't mean testing was done
True health testing involves specific protocols, often performed by board-certified veterinary specialists, with results submitted to official databases like OFA where they can be publicly verified.
Types of Health Testing
The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) coordinates evaluations for joint and structural conditions.
Hip Dysplasia Evaluation:
- X-rays taken by a veterinarian and submitted to OFA
- Evaluated by a panel of three board-certified veterinary radiologists
- Dog must be at least 24 months old for permanent evaluation (preliminary evaluations available earlier)
- Results: Excellent, Good, Fair (all passing) | Borderline, Mild, Moderate, Severe (failing grades)
- Dogs rated Fair or better are suitable for breeding
- Critical for breeds prone to hip dysplasia: German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, etc.
Elbow Dysplasia Evaluation:
- X-rays evaluated for joint abnormalities including ununited anconeal process, fragmented coronoid process, and osteochondritis dissecans
- Dog must be at least 24 months old
- Results: Normal (passing) | Dysplastic Grade I, II, or III (failing)
Patella (Kneecap) Evaluation:
- Physical examination by a licensed veterinarian
- Dog must be at least 12 months old
- Tests for luxating patella (kneecap that slips out of place)
- Results: Normal (passing) | Grade I, II, III, or IV luxation (various degrees of abnormality)
- Especially important for small breeds: Boston Terriers, Pomeranians, Chihuahuas, etc.
Cardiac Evaluation:
- Basic: Auscultation (listening) by a licensed veterinarian
- Advanced: Echocardiogram by a board-certified veterinary cardiologist
- Screens for heart murmurs, valve abnormalities, structural defects
- Requirements vary by breed — some require basic, some require advanced
Thyroid Evaluation:
- Blood test measuring thyroid hormone levels
- Screens for autoimmune thyroiditis
- Must be performed by approved laboratory (Michigan State, Auburn, etc.)
Eye examinations screen for hereditary eye conditions. CAER (Companion Animal Eye Registry) has replaced the older CERF program but serves the same purpose.
How it works:
- Examination must be performed by a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist (DACVO)
- Includes examination of all visible eye structures
- Results registered with OFA
What it screens for:
- Cataracts: Clouding of the lens; some forms are hereditary
- Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA): Degenerative disease leading to blindness
- Collie Eye Anomaly: Developmental defect affecting multiple breeds
- Retinal Dysplasia: Abnormal development of the retina
- Distichiasis: Abnormally placed eyelashes
- Entropion/Ectropion: Eyelids that roll inward or outward
Critical information:
- Eye exams should be performed annually on breeding dogs — unlike hip evaluations which are permanent, eye conditions can develop over time
- Results are only valid for 12 months
- When checking OFA, look at the date — an eye exam from 3 years ago is outdated
Brainstem Auditory Evoked Response (BAER) testing screens for congenital deafness.
How it works:
- Small electrodes placed on the head detect electrical activity in the brain in response to sound
- Each ear is tested separately
- Can be performed on puppies as young as 35 days old
- One-time test — results don't change over time
Results:
- Bilateral hearing: Both ears hear normally
- Unilateral deafness: One ear is deaf
- Bilateral deafness: Both ears are deaf
Which breeds need it:
- Breeds with white pigmentation: Dalmatians, white Boxers, white Bull Terriers
- Merle breeds: Australian Shepherds, Collies
- Boston Terriers (high incidence of congenital deafness)
- English Setters, English Cocker Spaniels, and many others
Important: Dogs with unilateral deafness can live perfectly normal lives as pets but should typically not be bred, as they can pass deafness genes to offspring.
DNA tests screen for specific genetic mutations that cause inherited diseases. Unlike OFA evaluations that assess current physical status, DNA tests reveal what genes a dog carries regardless of whether symptoms have appeared.
How it works:
- Simple cheek swab or blood sample sent to a laboratory
- Tests for specific gene mutations known to cause disease
- Results available in 2-4 weeks typically
- One-time test — DNA doesn't change
Common laboratories:
- Embark: Comprehensive breed + health panel, popular among breeders
- Wisdom Panel: Breed identification with health screening
- Pawprint Genetics: Breed-specific health panels
- Animal Genetics: Individual condition testing
- UC Davis VGL: Research-quality testing for specific conditions
Results explained:
- Clear/Normal (N/N): Dog does not carry the mutation — cannot pass it on, will not develop the condition
- Carrier (N/M): Dog carries one copy of the mutation — typically will not develop the condition but can pass it to 50% of offspring
- Affected/At Risk (M/M): Dog carries two copies — will develop or may develop the condition depending on the specific gene
Important nuance about carriers:
Carriers can be bred responsibly! The key is pairing them correctly:
- Carrier × Clear = 50% clear, 50% carriers, 0% affected (all puppies healthy)
- Carrier × Carrier = 25% clear, 50% carriers, 25% affected (some puppies will be affected)
- Carrier × Affected = 50% carriers, 50% affected (half the puppies will be affected)
A responsible breeder knows their dogs' genetic status and pairs accordingly. Eliminating all carriers from breeding would devastate breed gene pools — the goal is informed breeding, not eliminating carriers.
Common conditions tested by DNA:
- Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA): Multiple forms, causes blindness
- Degenerative Myelopathy (DM): Spinal cord degeneration, common in GSDs, Corgis
- Exercise-Induced Collapse (EIC): Common in Labrador Retrievers
- von Willebrand Disease: Bleeding disorder
- HSF4 (Hereditary Cataracts): Important for Boston Terriers
- Hyperuricosuria: Bladder stone formation